Himeji: The real castle and the fake one



What?

Himeji (姫路) is the second largest city of the Hyogo Prefecture (兵庫県). The city is best known for its magnificent castle nicknamed White Heron Castle (白鷺城) because of its white appearance. The castle's keep was under reconstruction from 2009 to 2015 and is now fully visible again. Other parts on the castle grounds are still covered though.
Apart from its castle the city also houses a more than 1000 years old temple complex (Shosha 書写山), the obligatory Japanese garden and a strange theme park called Taiyo Park 太陽公園.

Where?

Accessible by shinkansen, Himeji is really easy to go to. The castle is a 10 minute walk north of the station, but it can also be reached by bus.
Taiyo Park is a little trickier to get to. Buses on platform 1 or 18 get close to the park, but it's still a 10 minute walk after you get off the bus. A taxi ride is an alternative, but fairly pricy with a one way ticket around 3000 yen.


URL

Japan Guide Outline
Himeji Castle
Kansai Local

Having lived for quite a while in Matsumoto, and having loved every aspect of it, I am still an adept of the quiet mountain city. When people ask what there is to see in Matsumoto, I can dwell about beautiful natural surroundings and onsen, but within reach of the station the only thing really worthwhile is the castle that is designed as national treasure. And rightfully so, as it is one of the 12 castles that remain in original shape and as its black appearance inspires awe and it must have frightened possible attackers.
There are 4 castles designated as national treasure: Himeji, Matsumoto, Hikone, Inuyama. Having seen Hikone and Inuyama, I can confidently say that Matsumoto Castle surpasses them in all respects. While reconstructed Kumamoto Castle comes close to the impressive Matsumoto Castle, I still had to go to Himeji Castle, famed for being the best in Japan. And now I can finally confirm that – even though my Matsumoto heart bleeds – this statement is very true.

Himeji Castle has the beautiful authenticity of Matsumoto Castle and the vastness of that of Kumamoto. On top of that it stands majestically on a patch of high ground in the center of a big plain. If you think that is enough to be breathtaking, just stop and look at the sheer whiteness of the castle. While some complain it has become too white after the restauration, it is just remade as it was: with white plaster between all tiles. This makes that seen from far even the roof is white. Black and white contrast might be impressive, but full-out white is just simply beautiful and elegant.

Inside the castle there is not so much to see; in that aspect some interior reconstruction might do some good. On the other hand, the approach to the castle must be as it used to be: the curving alleys which must have been hell for attacking enemies let you enjoy the castle from every side. With a beautiful blue sky spotted with white clouds and a minimum of visitors this is truly the most impressive – and authentic – castle of Japan.



Talking about authenticity, there is actually a second castle in Himeji… which is the complete opposite of authenticity. In Taiyo Park, you can find a real life sized replica of the Neuschwanstein Castle. But that’s not all! The theme park has also a complete “stone site”, which includes more or less life sized replicas of famous stone statues and buildings of all over the world: Inca temples, Easter Island statues, Egyptian pyramids, the Chinese Terracotta Army, a piece of Chinese Wall, and even a battalion of Belgian’s most humiliating national pride: Manneken Pis.

While actually impressively made, this park raises so much questions that it is impossible to start to answer them. We know this park is made by social welfare and that mentally challenged people take care of the grounds – which explains the presence of a home for elderly and mentally challenged people in the middle of the park. However… there are barely any visitors and this thing must have cost and still cost so much money… the huge castle site is home to a fun but in proportion way too tiny trick-art museum. That cannot possibly cover any expenses made. And what is the theme of this theme park?? The stone area consists properly out of stone monuments, but everything is built on top of each other and wooden monuments are as much part of it as their stone counterparts. The real mystery remains the Neuschwanstein replica. I guess we will never know the answer, even after their pretty obvious bankruptcy.




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Yoris

Just dwelling away.

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